Hasbro E-11 conversion progress pics
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- InvaderSith
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Hasbro E-11 conversion progress pics
A while ago, I started modifying my Hasbro E-11. I opened it up, added a laser sight, chopped the front piece off, and replaced the LED in front.
I did not take pics of those steps, however.
I did take pics of the next steps:
I cut off the "fins" that were at the wrong angle:
Then I cut off the front curved "fins," marked where the new holes needed to be drilled, and made small pilot holes with a Dremel:
Drilled and trimmed the new holes:
Here is the internal view of the blaster:
This is the element from a laser pointer glued into the scope:
I attached leads to the existing battery contacts to avoid adding a second power supply. Here is the switch:
This is a focus on the wiring I added:
The red wire goes from the positive battery contact to the positive contact on the laser. The black wire goes from the negative battery contact to the switch, and from the other contact on the switch to the negative contact on the laser.
More pics as the project progresses.
I did not take pics of those steps, however.
I did take pics of the next steps:
I cut off the "fins" that were at the wrong angle:
Then I cut off the front curved "fins," marked where the new holes needed to be drilled, and made small pilot holes with a Dremel:
Drilled and trimmed the new holes:
Here is the internal view of the blaster:
This is the element from a laser pointer glued into the scope:
I attached leads to the existing battery contacts to avoid adding a second power supply. Here is the switch:
This is a focus on the wiring I added:
The red wire goes from the positive battery contact to the positive contact on the laser. The black wire goes from the negative battery contact to the switch, and from the other contact on the switch to the negative contact on the laser.
More pics as the project progresses.
The Dark Lord of the Snark
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Thats the same way I wired my laser running off the batteries of the blaster and I also used a seperate switch for the laser. My laser is installed in the scope.
Great job!! I wish I would have photographed and written the tutorial like you did but I didn't even think about it at the time 8 years ago!
Great job!! I wish I would have photographed and written the tutorial like you did but I didn't even think about it at the time 8 years ago!
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Ok, this part concentrates on the detail I decided to add to the Scope.
Here we have a lens that I found, a small graphic that I printed and laminated, and the replacement for the scope's original cap, a Scotch Tape dispenser roller:
Better view of the scope graphic:
Replaced the front LED with a Jumbo Super Bright LED and added a Super Bright green LED to the inside of the scope, projecting to the rear:
Close-up of the Jumbo LED:
Close-Up of the green LED in the scope:
More to come!
Here we have a lens that I found, a small graphic that I printed and laminated, and the replacement for the scope's original cap, a Scotch Tape dispenser roller:
Better view of the scope graphic:
Replaced the front LED with a Jumbo Super Bright LED and added a Super Bright green LED to the inside of the scope, projecting to the rear:
Close-up of the Jumbo LED:
Close-Up of the green LED in the scope:
More to come!
The Dark Lord of the Snark
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Time to paint!
First I mask off the internal components:
The newer toy has the parts glued in, so they do not slide out as easily as the older version.
I purchased a detail parts kit from a guy in the UK. I needed to do very little filling and sanding:
I painted the whole thing a "brass" hammer finish paint by Rustoleum. It is their line made specifically for plastics, like the Krylon Fusion line.
Here is the eyepiece of the scope:
This is a cap from a monitor cleaning kit:
I drilled a hole in the center for the laser to shine through.
This is the folded stock:
It does not unfold. I may remove it and add a working one later.
Detail shot of the T-Track I cut and sanded down to more closely match the real stuff:
I chose a thinner version to allow more light to shine through from the internal LED. It's made by Plastruct.
Final assembly should be tomorrow!
First I mask off the internal components:
The newer toy has the parts glued in, so they do not slide out as easily as the older version.
I purchased a detail parts kit from a guy in the UK. I needed to do very little filling and sanding:
I painted the whole thing a "brass" hammer finish paint by Rustoleum. It is their line made specifically for plastics, like the Krylon Fusion line.
Here is the eyepiece of the scope:
This is a cap from a monitor cleaning kit:
I drilled a hole in the center for the laser to shine through.
This is the folded stock:
It does not unfold. I may remove it and add a working one later.
Detail shot of the T-Track I cut and sanded down to more closely match the real stuff:
I chose a thinner version to allow more light to shine through from the internal LED. It's made by Plastruct.
Final assembly should be tomorrow!
The Dark Lord of the Snark
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To begin with, I took a piece of aluminum bracketing used for making a frame around plywood. I think this was for 1/2" ply.
I cut out part of the bottom of the bracket with a bandsaw and bent the sides into the correct shape.
Drilled holes for the mounting and sanded the ends round.
I drew a template using reference pictures and the remains of the broken resin stock. This template was traced onto a thin piece of aluminum sheet.
I cut out the stock with the bandsaw and used a vise to band it into shape.
I used JB Weld to fill in the seams. Here it is next to the resin piece.
I took a smaller piece of aluminum bracket, made for 1/4" plywood, I think, that fits into the other bracket piece. I rounded the ends and drilled holes for the attachment points.
I then drilled the holes in the remaining bottom portion of the original bracket piece. Here are all three pieces.
This is a test fit to see how it will function. The pieces are temporarily held together with nails. I will rivet them soon.
Next comes riveting and painting!
I cut out part of the bottom of the bracket with a bandsaw and bent the sides into the correct shape.
Drilled holes for the mounting and sanded the ends round.
I drew a template using reference pictures and the remains of the broken resin stock. This template was traced onto a thin piece of aluminum sheet.
I cut out the stock with the bandsaw and used a vise to band it into shape.
I used JB Weld to fill in the seams. Here it is next to the resin piece.
I took a smaller piece of aluminum bracket, made for 1/4" plywood, I think, that fits into the other bracket piece. I rounded the ends and drilled holes for the attachment points.
I then drilled the holes in the remaining bottom portion of the original bracket piece. Here are all three pieces.
This is a test fit to see how it will function. The pieces are temporarily held together with nails. I will rivet them soon.
Next comes riveting and painting!
The Dark Lord of the Snark
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I'm not even sure. I finished the parade in Fairbury and saw that a chunk was just plain missing. The resin one is a nice looking stock, but it is fragile. Dropping it will almost certainly lead to its destruction.Marvinrobot wrote:That is simply fantastic...how did you break the resin stock? just curious because I just finihed my E-11 about 2 weeks ago and now you have me nervous.
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Construction complete!
Ok, Tom asked how it folded. Here it is:
Now I have to get the paint and finish the beastie!
Now I have to get the paint and finish the beastie!
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Wow, the laser pointer is one that I've had for years. I have no idea where I got it. I'm going to do another one using a smaller laser pointer as well, I'm sure there won't be much difficulty making that modification.
The T-Track was bought at a hobby store that specializes in model trains.
All the aluminum was purchased at a hardware store, as were the rivets, rivet tool, and rivet back plates.
The LEDs and wires were either from my large stockpile of electronics junk or Radio Shack.
I think I bought the blaster itself at Target a few years back.
The resin parts expansion kit was bought on ebay. The added hammers and front sight piece were donated by Tom.
The electronics skills were acquired at ITT Houston North campus, which I spent two years commuting to in the company of a guy just like Hank Hill for 1.5 hours each way.
Used in the project were a drill press, a band saw, rivet tool, plastic bonding epoxy, masking tape, a paper towel tube, JB Weld, several toothpicks, a hot glue gun, and several types of spray paint.
I would like to thank my kids for having the good sense to bugger off and leave me alone when working on this project. I would like to thank television and video games for distracting them during this time as well. Nothing like electronic babysitting, hmm?
The T-Track was bought at a hobby store that specializes in model trains.
All the aluminum was purchased at a hardware store, as were the rivets, rivet tool, and rivet back plates.
The LEDs and wires were either from my large stockpile of electronics junk or Radio Shack.
I think I bought the blaster itself at Target a few years back.
The resin parts expansion kit was bought on ebay. The added hammers and front sight piece were donated by Tom.
The electronics skills were acquired at ITT Houston North campus, which I spent two years commuting to in the company of a guy just like Hank Hill for 1.5 hours each way.
Used in the project were a drill press, a band saw, rivet tool, plastic bonding epoxy, masking tape, a paper towel tube, JB Weld, several toothpicks, a hot glue gun, and several types of spray paint.
I would like to thank my kids for having the good sense to bugger off and leave me alone when working on this project. I would like to thank television and video games for distracting them during this time as well. Nothing like electronic babysitting, hmm?
The Dark Lord of the Snark
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