I will be using plaster bandages to make a sculpting base for the chest and back armor pieces. This way, there will be a lot less guessing, and a little more certainty that I've sculpted the piece to my chest size. The tank should still be progressing with the MDF cut outs I've already made. They will need some serious tweaking to get them screen accurate, and It might be a little bit LONGER to accommodate my orangutan-like features. This will also be a great time to re-do my shoulder bells. They are very inaccurate and need to be much larger.
So here's what they look like:
I was able to get the rolls in 3 yard lengths. I ordered a box of 12 from a Medical Supply shop. It should be enough to make a hollow cast of my chest. I chose the Fast setting plaster bandages rather than the very fast setting type. Both will still need overnight to fully harden.
The procedure is very simple. You will need someone to help out with this, they will be applying the wet plaster bandages to you. Get a tight form fitting t-shirt. You should not have to worry about using vaseline on your chest neck and arms. If you are exceptionally hairy (as nature intended for some of us, it might not be a bad idea to do it for the sake of averting painful tear outs). First step will be to cut some of the bandages down into more manageable lengths... six inches to 1 foot for areas for use around the shoulders and neck, and longer lengths to wrap around the torso proper. Use a cloth tape measure to get some ideas on the lengths you'll need.
Stand straight, and don't be afraid to let your gut hang out... try to stand as natural as possible, with your arms at your sides, slightly away from your body so that your helper can apply the plaster bandages onto the t-shirt.
Start with the shoulders, outside working your way toward the neck, overlapping sections of bandages as you go... 1/2" to 3/4" overlap should be enough to keep everything secure. Use smaller pieces to get around the neck. After the shoulders and neck are complete, start wrapping down the chest and back overlapping as you go! Keeping it as flush as possible to the body. Depending on how far you want to go, you can probably stop at the end of the t-shirt, or at the navel. This should be good point of reference where all the pieces are lying on your body. It will help with sculpting the correct proportions of the armor.
There is NO right or wrong way to apply the bandages, and don't worry about it looking too angled. DO try to get it as smooth and flat to the contour of the body. Make sure the model (you!) doesn't move around too much while the bandages are applied. I.E. - skip the 64 oz uber-cola, or six pack of beer until AFTER everything is done.
I think all you will need to do initially is two layers on the t-shirt, for rigidity. After you are finished, and the bandages have sufficiently hardened... which really isn't long...thirty minutes at the most after the last bandages have been applied. Get a pair of heavy duty scissors, and start cutting from one of the sides. CUT BOTH THE SHIRT AND THE BANDAGES and not skin.... Cut up from the bottom to the arm pit... then cut from the bottom side of the sleeve to the armpit. Next cut from the top side of the sleeve to the neck. Now, your helper should help loosen cast's grip on your skin, and pull you out from the side.
After you are free, patch the cut with small strips ASAP! If you'd like, let it set while you clean up and then add another layer of bandages to smooth and strengthen the outer surface. You now have a sculpting form of your own torso!
After you let is set overnight... or a couple of days, use rigid expanding foam and pieces of wood/ballast on the interior to reinforce the base.
Now obviously, there are MANY ways of accomplishing what I'm planning to do here. I've heard of people using old diving suits that they vaselined up to get the plaster off. I know someone how has a duct-tape vest they made so the plaster doesn't stick to it, and peels right off. There are many many ways to do this. So if you want to try this out, experiment!
I will be mostly using bondo and some urethane foams to sculpt the armor parts. After they are complete, I will be sealing them with a special urethane based paint, and then cutting them in half for use on my vac-forming machine. This should help me avoid any weird moisture problems. If water gets trapped under the hot plastic and the buck, you can get weird blisters, and textures.
I know this post is more of a heavy read, but once I finish my research I will re-post new information, and DIAGRAMS! I am hoping to start this closer to the end of April. Until then, I have a few other things that need to be completed before this project can be fully resurrected. Of Course, I have modified my vac-forming machine, and I still need to alter the plastic holding rig, and test the new oven. It will be an interesting month I hope. I doubt this will be ready before the July 4th. We'll just have to wait and see.
New postings in a week... or sooner. Have a great week everyone!
