Imperial Officer's Uniform F.A.Q.s

Post by **TKvanB** » Sat Mar 30, 2002 2:15 pm

Here are some answers to F.A.Q.s I have been getting about the Imperial officer's uniform: The pattern = Simplicity #7274 HEAVILY modified! It is a civil war uniform costume. You only need several of the pieces. Jacket back, Jacket front, collar, sleeve and the two pieces for the pants. BUT then you need to modify them. Here is my explanation of how I did the front of the tunic alterations to Simplicity #7274: Basically. You know how the front of the actual pattern has one piece on each side that match the lining pieces and the left folds over the right? They are all EXACTLY the same in the existing pattern, right? When I altered the pattern, I drew the overlapping flap to extend it all the way around the neck to the edge of the shoulder seam (add seam allowance) Then I extended the line of the front edge up to the shoulder seam. I reversed this for the under piece, but they will be exactly the same shape, just a mirror reflection. Cut out the lining pieces from this new shape. The lining pieces will always look like this and you can use them as a guide to see how off you are with the front pieces. You will cut out your interfacing to this shape too. This is exactly how much interfacing you will need, but it will be cut into smaller pieces a little later. After you have all of your pieces of the outside fronts of the fabric cut out, you will put the interfacing only in the areas that will be in the front, facing out areas of the jacket. What you will end up with is 2 separate pieces of fabric on the right side front of the tunic (Upper right yoke/pocket piece and lower right piece) and 3 separate pieces on the left side tunic front (Upper left yoke/pocket piece and lower left piece and the "V" shaped front piece) . The upper yoke/pocket pieces and lower pieces will be an exact mirror image of each other and the "v" shaped piece will be ON TOP of the left side. The edge of the pocket opening is about just over 1/3rd of the way down the armhole opening. Draw the line where the pocket opening will be. Use a ruler and make the line perpendicular to the center line on the pattern front. I used the size of a pack of cigarettes (Vince smokes and he wanted a place to carry them) to determine how deep the pocket would be. I doubled that measurement and added a seam allowance to the upper piece of the tunic front top pieces. I cut it straight across the entire front, so the pocket area is all the way across the fronts on both sides. --back to the interfacing--on the right side of the jacket, the interfacing will need to be cut at the pocket line. You will NOT need any interfacing inside the pocket. Mark the pocket line. Fuse you inter facing to the back of the upper and lower right side pieces. On the left side, the interfacing will be in three parts. Cut out the "V" shape. Out of the remainder of the interfacing piece, cut the bottom shape up to the pocket line and the last little piece goes on the inside of the upper left yoke. Fuse 'em! Make sure you are ironing the correct pieces to the correct positions. I did it like this to reduce bulk in the jacket. ----back to the sewing--- I sewed down the parts under the overlap after I had it all together, so the chalk holders and cigarettes wouldn't side around under the center. I left the center part accessible too, as an extra inside pocket to side small flat things into--like a convention badge pocket...... I cut the bottom front piece to the pocket line straight across the whole piece and added a seam allowance. One problem is that the slanted line of the side openings is difficult to cut flat. I DID NOT even attempt to figure out the proper slant and cut the pieces straight down, perpendicularly. I folded the pieces together AFTER I had sewn the top of the pocket seam and understiched the seam allowance to the inside of the pocket opening. I folded it back to gether and then put a line of basting stitches across the top of the pocket to keep the pieces absolutely perfectly lined up together. Then I cut the excess material to match the slanted line of the opening. Basting all of these loose pieces, like the pockets is the only way to get the whole thing to come out clean looking. For the "V" shaped center piece, I folded the left side piece at the marked center line and drew that shape (adding a seam allowance to the left side edge) I sewed the left edge to the completed left side. I drew a line exactly wear the side should be stitched, since the idea is to make this symmetrical with the opening on the right side. Once you have this all done, you can proceed with the directions as described in the pattern about how to put the collar in and put the lining in and put the sleeves in. Remember to cut your collar in a squared off shape. The pattern shows a rounded collar. If you can figure out what the heck I did with the front alterations there, a square collar is a piece of cake. Queenseamstress asked in an other thread on an other message board: Hey Nos(that's me) -I am starting the officer tunic today, since the kids are gone. I totally understand the little pockets, and making the two side pieces bigger,etc. The one thing I am bit uneasy about is the center front piece. I know it is sewn into the left completed side piece-but how do I do this? Do I turn the edge of the front piece under and top stitch it, or what? If the left side is completed and sewn together-I am not sure how to do it...Everything else on your picture is peachy. I will try to do everything else and the sleeves sewn together while I wait to hear from you. Thanks! Amy My response: qs-- fold the left side piece down the center and draw/mark that line on the left front top side piece after you have the pocket area sewn, understitched, and then basted back together with a long basting top stitch. Pin the front "V" shaped piece so the seam will be directly over that line that you just drew/marked. Sew it down from the inside, so the top (right side) of the "V" shape is folded over the top (right side) of the functional opening of the pocket area (which, at the moment is basted shut). After you sew this seam, just press it back in place. I did not top stitch it down on 2 of the jackets I made, but I did on one other. I think it looks better not top stitched, because if you do it there on that seam, you will have to do it on the other side too (the opening side) so that it looks symmetrical. It's up to you though. If your fabric is really puffy or spongy, a row of top stitching may make it look a little sharper. If I emailed you the drawing, this is the explanation of what that all is. I hope it makes some sense to you (or your moms). If I didn't email you the drawing, LMK, and I will pass it on. kvanb@prodigy.net 1) What material did I use? I used a synthetic blend, a gabardine. The color, weight and texture (and price) were mostly what I paid attention to. The material looks exactly the same on the front and the back, so you can cut out pieces without worrying whether you have it on the "right" side. I washed all of the material in cold water first then tossed the fabric in the dryer. It is really important to me to use fabrics that are easy to care for. Although, I may have the jackets dry-cleaned. I wouldn't use wool, because I want to be able to wear the costumes for extended periods of time. Vince (my husband) wore his olive uniform for two days in a row at DragonCon. He did spill a bit of mustard on the tunic. The spot came right off. 2) How did I make the rank insignia? Plexiglas scraps-I cut them out by hand, sanded and filed them and it took a long time. I painted the squares with acrylic paint that I had left over from my Chicago cow project and from the Easter eggs on Quincy's Queen Amidala costume. Then I clear matte lacquered them and attached them to a piece of aluminum flashing that I attached to yet an other piece of Plexiglas. I used "GOOP" to put this together. I lightly sanded the surfaces that needed to stick together. I painted the sides of the base with a silver testors paint marker. Right now I have Velcro on the back to attach it to the tunic. Vince has a pinback on his. Ayecarrumbah! This project was a lot more tedious than I thought! If I would have been able to find my plexi cutter, it may have gone faster or maybe not. The rectangles might not have been as square. I had Vince make his own rank bar. After I had 2 rectangles cut out, I said, "This is hard! I guess I will be a lower rank!" So I decided I am going to be a captain. I only need 6 rectangles. I cut them out by hand using a coping saw. I couldn't cut too fast, or else the plastic would melt from the friction. I got a new "used" plexi cutter from work. I did try it on the next rank bar I make...(for Quincy) It was a little easier. I also ended up using the grinding tools on my Dremel to shape the rectangles better. It gets a bit easier the more I made. Quincy has an Admiral's rank bar now! 3) What was to total cost of the fabric/materials? Hmmmmm. The pattern = Simplicity #7274 HEAVILY modified! $8.95 Simplicity Patterns were on sale this winter at JoAnne Fabrics for $1.50. I have two of these patterns now. One is cut to Vince's size and one is cut to TK808's size. You only need several of the pieces. Jacket back, Jacket front, collar, sleeve and the two pieces for the pants. BUT then you need to modify them. The olive fabric was $5/per yard. I used about 8yards/60" width. I bought all of the fabric there was in that color though, incase I made a mistake, I would never be able to match it again. I got almost 10 yards, but I had a discount coupon, so I ended up paying about $40 for that. The jacket is completely lined with the same material. The black was less than $5/per yard. I think it was on sale for $2-$3/per yard. I bought the entire roll of fabric (12-14 yards). I made two black officer's uniforms. I ran out of the first black fabric when I got to making my pants, so I had to find a close match. That was $5 per yard. I goofed-up the first pair of my pants and had to get two more yards. There are 9 heavy snaps and shoulder pads on the tunic. The pants all have pockets and combination draw-string/elastic waists. That was ~$10 bucks for all those notions. The hats and the jacket collars and fronts are faced with fusible interfacing...that was several dollars per yard as well. I used a black satin lining material for the sleeves of my jacket, since I was running low on the material. That was $1 per yard/2 yards/45"width. The belts & buckles are from Tandy leather. $2 for the buckle, ~$18 for the belt. They are regularly about $25 total. They were on sale through the end of February and mine came to less than $20 including shipping. Here is the Tandy site for the belt & buckle again: <a href="http://www.tandyleather.com/DEFAULT.ASP ...  <a href="http://www.tandyleather.com/prodinfo.as ...  item=2 = the buckle Natural Cowhide Belt Blank 2" #4451800 = the belt you want to get. Black Flexible car bumper paint and flexible clear finish were $5 per can. This paint and finish dries quickly. You can paint it at night and it will be as dry as it is going to get the next morning. I put 2 coats on the outside of the belt and one on the inside and then one coat of the clear finish on the out side. The code cylinder/chalk holders are plastic ones that I chromed with model paints. $3 per holder and a few bucks for the paint. I primed them first with grey model primer and them used Testor's chrome to finish them. The greeblies are concentric washers that I put together---maybe $0.25 worth of washers per greeblie. >>Where did everyone get their chalk holders/code cylinders? I got our (plastic ones) through our office supply catalog (Royal Office Supply in Chicago)through work. The company that manufactures them is called "Rogers" and they are sold through 'Newell Office Products Company'. I recently made an inquiry regarding the older model metal chalk holders they had produced and this was their reply: > > The metal chalk chuck was discontinued in 2000. We only have the > plastic > > one available. The product number is 800-598-2736. What I did to the plastic ones was, first take the pieces apart and prime them with grey model primer. Let them dry. The I painted them with Testors Chrome enamel. I made a special board covered with newspapers and then had very long nails sticking out of it to hold the pieces straight up when I was spraying them. After they were dry, I put them back together and in the pockets. I have two of the metal ones that a fellow-trooper found in a out-of-the-way little art supply place near his home. If you see the metal ones anywhere, buy 'em. But the plastic ones will work. >>Also what did you use to attach them (the "greeblies") to the hat and belt buckle? I am assuming you mean the 'greeblies'?? I used an adhesive called "GOOP" sold at hardware stores, but I imaging you could use a heavy-duty hot glue too. >>What about the silver circle to the side of the buckle? I didn't put mine on yet, but I found some 1/2" round silver studs in the close-out bin of old discontinued weird stuff at the fabric store. We throw Plexiglas scraps away at work. So that was just junk that I recycled. Same with the flashing. That came from a garage repair project a couple years back. Right now I have enough material to make over 100 Imperial rank insignias. Mine took about 4 hours to make because I made it using only hand tools. I kept thinking to myself how much I felt like the captives in the movie "The Great Escape" trying to fashion Nazi-German military uniforms for when they would try to escape the Stalag. Before I found my Plexi-cutter, I cut all of the rectangles out with a coping saw, very tedious, but you have more control. There was hours of filing and sanding associated with the shaping of all of the rectangles I finally got cut out. The Plexi-cutter, is a really sharp small hand tool we use in the custom framing industry. I was looking at one of the manufacturer's catalogs today at work. The maker is "Fletcher" and a company called United Manufacturer's Supply sells them, but you may need to have trade status to order directly from them. I think they have a web-site. The plexi-cutters (double edged plastic-cutters)are about $4.50, but you kind of need to have a lot of practice to get it to make those 1/2" x 3/4" rectangles. Using the Plexi cutter involves scoring the surface of the Plexi (several times) where you want the break to happen, and then applying the right amount of pressure to make the piece break off. It is Very difficult to get the material to break cleanly into such small pieces. I have some 4" x 18" pieces of Plexiglas that I salvaged from a display fixture at work last year. That is what I have been making my rank bar rectangles out of. I think I got about 24 useable 1/2" x 3/4" rectangles out of that entire piece of Plexiglas! And then I still needed to do a lot of shaping. BUT, the resulting rank bars are fairly descent. The coping saw may be a bit more tedious, but most people should have the control to use that tool with a relatively high rate of success. Filing & sanding are great stress-relievers though. Then there is thread and stuff like that.....All-in-all and including the boots, our costumes cost ~$125-$150 each. I have about 22 hours on average of fabric prep and sewing time in each. This is not an easy costume to make. Vince's costume cost a little more, because we got a speeding ticket in Marietta, GA when we were on our way to get his boots. The cops pulled us over for doing 42 miles an hour in a school zone speed trap (that we didn't notice the signs for) Vince was doing the driving then. My boot link: <a href="http://www.gprix.com/chrbt.htm">www.gpr ...  An other boot link: Look HERE: <a href="http://www.sportsmansguide.com/">www.sp ...  This is not an easy costume to do. I made the uniform for Vince almost by accident. I happened to stumble on the perfect fabric for the Grand Moff costume while I was looking for fabric to make a Jedi robe. The correct olive green fabric is so difficult to find. For mine: I had to cut and paste the pattern pieces from several different sizes and hope that it worked. I used the 'small' pattern guides for the neck and shoulders and used the 'large' pattern guide lines for the lower part of the tunic, from the arm holes down. I added princess seams to the back to put a little more shape into the back and then I shortened the whole thing about half a foot from the length guide lines for the small pattern. I had made me a "normal" pair of the pants from this costume pattern in the extra large size and added pockets. I like looser clothes to wear to work, but everything I wear MUST have pockets. For my costume uniform pants, I used the 'extra-large' guide lines at the top, shortened the pants to fit my stubby legs, and measured for where to make the "S" curve on the sides (and added pockets). The first pair of costume pants I made were all wrong and I had to start over completely because I had put the "S" curve too high. Now that I have my boots to see what the legs do look like when tucked in, I think mine will be fine. The biggest flaws in Vince's costume are that the collar has a small overlap in the front and I did not get the sleeves into the shoulders as flatly as I wanted. Vince is the perfect size "small/extra small" from this pattern. I did not have to change the size of anything, not even the length to fit him perfectly. TK808 is a little taller and has broader shoulders and chest. I had 808 try on Vince's tunic when he came over so I could compare different points in the fit. Of course, Vince's was too small for 808, but I could gage where I needed to make some of the changes in the pattern. I shortened the collar in 808's tunic, but now the pieces do not meet. It looks more like a priest's collar, but then that is really what the actual movie costume has, so I am not too concerned. TK808 tried on his costume a few weeks ago and it fits him pretty well. I only needed to make some minor adjustments and I added shoulder pads to his. Mine has shoulder pads too. They make the whole uniform look at heck of a lot sharper! Vince has very square shoulders, so his didn't need them. ---------------------------------------- Hats = See my other thread about the hat instructions. The only thing I thought of as far as being able to speed the process up, was to cut out multiple hats at the same time. I got out my rotary cutter and rotary cutter mat and cut out 4 hats. 2 at a time in two different sizes. That sped that up a little. I got a little bit better control as I cut out every piece. The rotary cutter is like a super-sharp pizza cutter. I was cutting through 4 layers of fabric at a time. So I cut out 4 hats. I cut out the interfacings like this too. It does take at least 4 hours to make a hat. It takes a lot longer if I also include the fabric pre-prep and the drafting of the pattern. I figured it takes almost an equal amount of time cutting, ironing, sewing and pinning. There is no way to do that quickly and have the hats turn out as sharp-looking. I am trying to figure out how much I would charge (normal) people for a hat like this if I had any time to make a lot of them.... <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... ferent.gif ALT=":|"> I have seen the hats from some of those other costume-making places and they are like $30-$35. But they don't have quite the sharpness and quality of construction as the ones I have made have. Then there are the hats from the guy in the Pacific. Hmmmm...... I suppose you could ask yourself, "Do I want people to cower in fear as they approach me in my Imperial hat, or will they hand me their car keys?" You need to measure your head to get the correct measurements. I was able to measure TK412's head. I made one for him that fits him perfectly. I made one for TK895 that I thought would fit him, because I was guessing at his head size and shape, but he said it might be a bit small. He said it fit him better after he got a haircut. I made an other, exactly the size of TK412's and tried it on TK808 when he came over about a while ago. That one was way too big for him. I made one for me of course, that fits my head perfectly and Vince's fits him perfectly. Ours were way too small for 808's head. I had yet an other hat under construction that was an in-between size. When he came over to try on the rest of the costume, he tried it on finally, and it did fit him perfectly! The circumference of both my head and Vince's head is 22 1/2" and the distance from the tops of our ears to the top of our head (drawn with an invisible line at an angle ......) is 3 1/2" 412's was 24" and 4". It is only the matter of 1 1/2" and a 1/2" difference, but that does make all the difference. Neither of those hats fit 808. I have even figured out a better way to make the washer greeblies/Imperial discs on the hats. I have a very rough draft of the hat pattern and directions written out, but not on-line as of yet. I have been so busy making all of the other costumes that I haven't had time to sit down and type them out. ......Someday. Maybe even today. Here is the link to my page with pictures: <a href="http://www.geocities.com/tkvanb/imperia ...  <center><a href=http://www.geocities.com/tkvanb/>I GOT ARMOR!!</a> <a href=http://www.geocities.com/tkvanb/gotarmor.html>Fashion cognoscenti throughout the universe agree; White IS the new black this year.</a> <a href=http://www.wizards.com/starwars/celebra ... onII>C U @ C II</a></center>

Post by **TKvanB** » Sun Jun 02, 2002 7:47 pm

Geez. Page 8. <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... ferent.gif ALT=":|"> <center><a href=http://www.geocities.com/tkvanb/resumepage.html>View my resume. Are you hiring?</a> <a href=http://www.angelfire.com/stars/kvanb/>Fashion cognoscenti throughout the universe agree; White IS the new black this year.</a> <a href=http://www.geocities.com/tkvanb/>TKvanB/ID/TK9989</a></center>

Post by **TKvanB** » Mon Jul 29, 2002 7:44 pm

I just scanned my hat pattern as jpegs. PM/mail me if anyone is interested.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Thu Aug 01, 2002 8:55 am

I am going to try out your mod's on the Uniform after DragonCon <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /smile.gif ALT=":)"> I have a few people besides my husband and myself that are interested in the outfit <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /smile.gif ALT=":)"> I think the hat may be the hardest part.

Post by **Mr Fett** » Thu Aug 01, 2002 10:08 am

You are wise to learn from Kathy. She is the master!!!! <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /smile.gif ALT=":)">

Post by **bobafrettTK523** » Thu Aug 01, 2002 12:26 pm

Plus one hell of a typist! "Open the blast doors, open the blast doors!"

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Thu Aug 01, 2002 12:36 pm

Someone's already done the mods <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... /smile.gif ALT=":)"> less work for me <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/intl/aenglish/im ... s/wink.gif ALT=";)">

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Wed Oct 02, 2002 11:46 am

Code cylinders (metal chalk holders) can be found from this place: <a href="http://www.zteacher.com/search.asp?item ...  Under $4, not too bad.

Post by **TKvanB** » Wed Oct 02, 2002 7:46 pm

Yeah, those are sweet!

Post by **TS826** » Thu Oct 03, 2002 10:01 pm

I have a few links to metal chalk holders. If anyone is interested, I have a link to a place that sells the very same holder, as listed above, for $1.29

Post by **TK 737** » Thu Oct 03, 2002 11:11 pm

...OR you can get them from a certain jackass in Georgia for $5.00 each! "Jesus Tapdancing Christ..." B.F.

Post by **TK321** » Fri Oct 04, 2002 8:24 am

826... I would be interested in the site for the chalk holders if you would be so kind as to provide the information. "You know, sometimes I amaze even myself." Han Solo

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Fri Oct 04, 2002 12:23 pm

Ditto on that web link. Please also shoot me that info. THX. -Jim –DarienVader SL1020 "Fear is my ally."

Post by **TS826** » Fri Oct 04, 2002 5:07 pm

DV, I don't have your address.

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Fri Oct 04, 2002 6:13 pm

Could you email me that link, too? Thank you, Marty MovieBuyer@hotmail.com

Post by **TK321** » Fri Oct 04, 2002 10:39 pm

**Transmission Received** "You know, sometimes I amaze even myself." Han Solo

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Tue Oct 08, 2002 6:13 pm

You sent me the hat instructions and the pattern modifications. These are working so great! Thanks for your help. What I'm wondering now is, what did you do to create your rank bars? I'm not having any luck with these. Thanks again.

Post by **TKvanB** » Tue Oct 08, 2002 6:34 pm

The small rectangles are made of 1/4" thick plexiglass, painted. I used acryllic paint (red + blue, again left over from other projects) , let them dry and then sprayed a clear gloss over them. The base of the rank bar is made of 1/4" thick plexiglass, with a piece of aluminum flashing "GOOPED" on top of it. I used "GOOP" to attatch the rectangles to the flashing as well. Just make sure you rough-up the back of each rectangle and also the area where the rectangle will rest on the aluminum. I used a strip of adheasive-backed industrial velcro (from work) on the back side of the rank bar. Put the "hook" on the rank bar and sew enough of the NON-ADHEASIVE "LOOP" velcro onto your jacket. ........and here is more about the rank bar from the mega-long first post above: <blockquote>Quote:<hr> We throw Plexiglas scraps away at work. So that was just junk that I recycled. Same with the flashing. That came from a garage repair project a couple years back. Right now I have enough material to make over 100 Imperial rank insignias. Mine took about 4 hours to make because I made it using only hand tools. I kept thinking to myself how much I felt like the captives in the movie "The Great Escape" trying to fashion Nazi-German military uniforms for when they would try to escape the Stalag. Before I found my Plexi-cutter, I cut all of the rectangles out with a coping saw, very tedious, but you have more control. There was hours of filing and sanding associated with the shaping of all of the rectangles I finally got cut out. The Plexi-cutter, is a really sharp small hand tool we use in the custom framing industry. I was looking at one of the manufacturer's catalogs today at work. The maker is "Fletcher" and a company called United Manufacturer's Supply sells them, but you may need to have trade status to order directly from them. I think they have a web-site. The plexi-cutters (double edged plastic-cutters)are about $4.50, but you kind of need to have a lot of practice to get it to make those 1/2" x 3/4" rectangles. Using the Plexi cutter involves scoring the surface of the Plexi (several times) where you want the break to happen, and then applying the right amount of pressure to make the piece break off. It is Very difficult to get the material to break cleanly into such small pieces. I have some 4" x 18" pieces of Plexiglas that I salvaged from a display fixture at work last year. That is what I have been making my rank bar rectangles out of. I think I got about 24 useable 1/2" x 3/4" rectangles out of that entire piece of Plexiglas! And then I still needed to do a lot of shaping. BUT, the resulting rank bars are fairly descent. The coping saw may be a bit more tedious, but most people should have the control to use that tool with a relatively high rate of success. Filing & sanding are great stress-relievers though. <hr></blockquote>

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Tue Oct 08, 2002 6:46 pm

Thanks for the quick reply. I'll have to do some digging for the plexiglas and aluminum scraps. Can you suggest which businesses to approach for those materials? I bet I can do the cutting and sanding with my Dremel, don't you think? I made a great lightsaber with it, and I have some small clamps to hold the little pieces while I'm working.

Post by **TKvanB** » Tue Oct 08, 2002 7:27 pm

The Dremmel might work at the slowest speed for rough cutting. My Dremmel spins too fast and melts the plastic. Score & snap works the most efficiently, but you need to do it a bunch of times before you get the 'feel' for it. I work at an art gallery/custom framing store. We toss out tons of smallish pieces of plexiglass. Check your local framing place, or look in their dumpster (but watch out for real glass!!!!!!) Aluminum flashing ................ interior and/or exterior construction site. I used my "bad" scissors to cut the shapes out of the flashing. Tin snips will work (best) I have used the flashing in a multitude of costumes and props. I bet you can get it pretty cheap at the hardware store. Aluminum flashing............the grand prize, best of show at the GenCon 2002 costume contest made an army (12) of armored characters out of aluminum flashing. I checked them out after the contest as we were all leaving the building and asked them for sure wether it was aluminum flashing......it has a multitude of uses. You won't regret buying a whole roll if you have to. <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/wink.gif ALT=";)">

Imperial Officer's Uniform F.A.Q.s

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