Static Boxes

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sat Apr 05, 2003 1:58 pm

I have been pretty busy as of late, and have not had much time to devote to this project. I am going to attempting to get some working CAD drawings this week and send away for a small proto run of boards. This first run would be an exact clone of the unit that was once offered by GT. As long as this small proto run goes as planned I will work on a revised unit in the very near future that will incorporate the voice amp and the static box all in one. I am also considering making the voice activation part of the design adjustable so it works more reliable in more conditions. And if all goes well with that, then I will attempt to build in a digital recorder chip that will allow you to sample in any sound (laser blast, explosion...) and play it with a remote trigger. For anyone that has one of these original GT units is there anything you don't like about it and would like to see changed or improved upon? One thing I noticed is that the "white noise" or "static" it makes seems to last a bit long, any input? This is a VERY easy fix and I have already run test that shorten it to any length. Another is that it only seems to fire about 50% of the time, this should/could be corrected with the voice activated sensitivity I want to add. Although from what I have heard in the movies the 50% rate is probably "moive correct" again any input?

Post by **TS826** » Sat Apr 05, 2003 4:38 pm

If it is opinions you are asking for, here is mine: I would think that anything closer to 100% is better. When I listen to those who already have these units, I really don't mind the longer static noise. I feel it emphisizes the effect. Although, a little shorter duration would be more accurate. The biggest problem I have noticed is volume. I'm not sure how others feel, but have found that when there is even a small rise in crowd noise, the effect starts to become lost. It is very cool to see someone is pursuing this project. Please keep us updated. I for one have been a silent trooper, far too long...

Post by **SHEEPDOG54** » Sat Apr 05, 2003 6:34 pm

The unit would also need some type of program to cancel out feedback. I have the old Galaxy unit and have tried everything to stop this but alas I still get feedback. I can turn up the volume about 90% percent but then............that nasty feedback !!!

Post by **TK321** » Sat Apr 12, 2003 8:46 pm

Any updates? I found my old G/T unit if he still needs one to reference. <blockquote>Quote:<hr>I for one have been a silent trooper, far too long... <hr></blockquote> So who knew 826 could talk?!! <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/glasses.gif ALT="8)"> "You know, sometimes I amaze even myself." Han Solo

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Sat Apr 12, 2003 10:10 pm

>>>Any updates? Well, yes I have finished the CAD designs for a clone GT unit. This will be a drop in replacement board for existing units. Now I am in the process of double checking, and then triple checking the whole design before I send it off to get a proto board made. It is going to cost about $100 to get two proto boards made, just the PCB not the parts on it <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/frown.gif ALT=":("> PC boards are darn expensive until you approach the 500/1000 mark. The board is so tight with the layout that etching your own in the hobbiest fashion will in most cases result in a bad board, so I am left having them professionally produced and pay the price even for one or two prototype boards. Lead times on the PCB is about a week or two so I probably won't have much to update till then. TK321 hold onto that unit if the prototype design that I just did doesn't work correct I might be in contact for reference, as I used a "bad" unit to clone from <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/wink.gif ALT=";)"> As for the feedback issues, that is more a result of the amp/microphone then the static box and I will attempt to tackle that issue with the second design that should have the amp built in...

Post by **TK321** » Sun Apr 13, 2003 7:47 pm

Exoray... Just let me know. This is my back-up unit and it works fine. "You know, sometimes I amaze even myself." Han Solo

Post by **TK 737** » Mon Apr 21, 2003 5:04 pm

I don't mean to de-rail this thread, but... I just got back a *blown* GT unit and it's fixed. Kinda a band-aid fix, but it works perfectly. The problem is/was one of the chips. It's called a CMOS and is very succeptible to static electricity. 321, remember the comic show in Gurnee when yours suddenly died? It was because you were walking on carpet. Seriously! CMOS chips are meant to be used in stationary machines (like pinball games). The guy that figured this out is a pinball game builder. Normally I'd be skeptical of everything he told me, but the fact that he started out with a dead board and gave me back a working one (the same board, btw) changes everything... The band-aid fix is this: Since those chips will blow (until the board is redesigned), he removed the dead chip and replaced it with a "socket". With the socket in place, the dead chip can be popped out and a new chip can be plugged in. It's like replacing a battery. If you look at the board with the writing facing you, the chip is the southwest one. You can get the socket and replacement chips at Radio Shack (or so I was told, but haven't tried yet). I guess the trick will be getting back the boards you guys sent out for repair... Hope this helps. Thanks to 604 for the new toy! "I'm a tool! I'm a tool! Like a Xerox machine or a waffle iron!" -Pistol Pete

Anonymous · Post by **Anonymous** » Mon Apr 21, 2003 10:08 pm

All four grouped ICs on the board are 4000 series CMOS chips and yes they like most ICs are very susceptible to static electricity. If you remove the board from the case this danger goes up 3,4,5... times! There isn't much that can be done with this design except to leave it in the plastic case (or another case, or even just wrap it in electrical tape) and hope for the best <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/smile.gif ALT=":)"> TK 737 "I don't mean to de-rail this thread, but..." Don't consider it de-railed as I like the any input on these units and since you seem to have narrowed your failed unit down and probably others as well, I will socket all the CMOS chips on my units (it will add less then a dollar to the cost) so they can be changed out and I will offer extra chips for sale to anyone that needs a new set complete with or with out the sockets. That is for anyone that feels you can do the soldering required in changing them... I would also be willing to pull, socket and replace all these chips for a small fee+shipping if you don't want to tackle the solder iron.. There really isn't any other parts that should fail on the board under most situations. You can probably get the chips from Rat Shack but they have a HUGE markup and don't carry any parts in stock at most stores... They probably carry the sockets but again at a ten fold markup. If you are not really handy with a solder iron pulling these chips without wrecking the PCB might/will be an issue. On a last note I was real busy this last week, had a weekend deadline to launch a new website, put a full week in at my day job and went to three ALL NIGHT shows this weekend with some of my friends from L.A., out to doing a mini Chicago area tour. Where am I going with this? Well I never found time to do the last and final check of the CAD designs and send them out <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/frown.gif ALT=":("> But, I did have a lot of fun and drank a lot of beer!

Post by **TS826** » Tue Apr 22, 2003 1:38 am

As long as fun & beer are involved, all else can wait!

Post by **TK118** » Wed Apr 23, 2003 3:53 pm

Duffy, Fantastic. At least now we have some idea what went wrong. I'll try that on mine and see how it goes. Thanks for the tip man! <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/smile.gif ALT=":)"> Exo, no big rush man. We have had to wait this long, no one will mind waiting a bit longer. May I suggest, that if static is the problem, A plastic switch and plastic nuts should be used, or a rubber push switch. If I recall correctly the old boxes had metal toggle switches which could have been the point of contact for the static. Just a thought.

Post by **SHEEPDOG54** » Wed Apr 23, 2003 11:51 pm

I know what the problem was with all your boxes.........along with the static........most of you had your static boxes out of the box!!!! If I recall a lot of you had the inards just glued to the inside of the helmets without any kind of enclosures. Well guess what? Sweat,moisture......=shorting out. I also recall saying this to a lot of people but of course nobody ever listens. Mine still works fine and is one of the original GT Static boxes. I placed the inards in a box small enough to fit in the helmet. But it is still enclosed. So ..........guess what? Keep it in the plastic box!!

Post by **TK118** » Thu Apr 24, 2003 6:39 am

265, Mine was NEVER out of the box it came in. and it still died <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/frown.gif ALT=":("> . In fact, the replacement box I got was dead when I got it. <img src=http://www.ezboard.com/images/emoticons/frown.gif ALT=":(">

Post by **TK321** » Thu Apr 24, 2003 9:47 am

And mine was still in the box, too. Though I suppose I should have removed it from the cardboard and packing material first before I installed it. "You know, sometimes I amaze even myself." Han Solo

Post by **SHEEPDOG54** » Thu Apr 24, 2003 10:19 pm

I like boxes.......can I play with your box?

Post by **TK321** » Fri Apr 25, 2003 2:18 pm

Is this an offer to re-wire my helmet?!?!?! "You know, sometimes I amaze even myself." Han Solo

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