The Daft Trooper - 9336 takes on Daft Punk!

[Rebel Doughboy]

Awesome news. The shoes saga should be over now.

Did some research on a product called Forever Black Tire Gel. It is used on automotive tires. It is a dye, for rubber. Plus it comes out in a dull black. PERFECT. a lot of glowing reviews, the only people who didn't like them is that is was dull and not a glossy finish. I am so happy it's dull as that's EXACTLY what I am going for. Lasts 6 months, and just re-apply to get that factory fresh finish. I like my shoes worn in and Daft's shoes are definitely worn. I wish this could help other people get different colors but this only comes in black.

http://www.foreverblack.com/products.html

SUCCESS.

I can't wait to put it on.

Also, getting this. $40 total since there are very few places to get either item but well the things we do for love. Or accuracy. Attempted accuracy.

http://www.finishfirstpolish.com/produc ... rotectant/

[Rebel Doughboy]

Well, I am crazy. Crazy for trying to use Fabric dye on rubber soles. I put on Paint it Black and got to work immediately after receiving Forever Black Tire Gel in the mail today. No time was wasted.


Before by TK9336, on Flickr


RIT Dye vs Forever Black Tire Dye by TK9336, on Flickr
13.5 Hrs of RIT dye (left) versus Forever Black Tire Dye (1 coat.) (Don't mind the painter's tape, you don't need it. It was on there when I thought spray painting was a awesome idea.)


After by TK9336, on Flickr
The best things in life are simple. The simpler, the better, and usually works better. I took the previously dyed shoes, put on 3 coats of Forever Black, then a coating of LVR Protectant with Lanolin, then another coat of Forever Black on Top of that.


I think it worked. by TK9336, on Flickr

So if you ever want to make the rubber (anything) black, I HIGHLY recommend this product. Lasts 6 months, and lay on a ton of coats and it will last a real long time. If anything should happen, or you want to rejuvinate the factory fresh color, take 5 minutes with the sponge applicator that comes with it and do it. It will seriously take 5 minutes to do BOTH shoes. Well I better start wearing them now. So ends the MASSIVE time vampire, I hope this works for people in the future!

Any other color than black...well I have no clue. I'd still use RIT but only with a white base. It obviously works...but if you can get the color before hand then just get it!

Now...time to get back to working on the real parts of this costume. I am glad ONE part of it is done.

Ciao! (and thank a Vet if your in the US!)

[Rebel Doughboy]

After two days the edge of where the rubber hits the pavement is coming off a tiny bit, but wear and tear is expected so I am not crushed. It scuffs like any other shoe would (just remember it's x100 times easier to do so.) I will redo the Forever black on before the photoshoot I eventually do to have clean appearence...though I do like the worn look. I will be wearing them regularily next week and will take a picture or two to show normal wear for you guys. And on that note, I emailed Krylon about using spraypaint on shoes and they said it wouldn't work period (for those of you still thinking Spray painting be a better route.)


Thomas Matrix! by TK9336, on Flickr
Just thought I'd leave that progression picture here being done by Sandiskduo of The Daft Club forums.

Currently my college workload (more along the lines of being behind in school) isn't doing any favors on the progress for this project requiring a re-aligning of priorities (finishing this semseter on a high note and worrying about this in Thanksgiving and over Christmas since studies should be my only priority right now...) Since this project's deadline is in April 2013 for C2E2 in Chicago (planned debut.) I hope to have it done January 14th though, which seems most realistic for the Midwest Garrison formal.
In any case I am leaving that much time to finish it since the last thing I am doing is rushing this over the top and expensive project. I hope to get on top of Darth real life so I can continue updating this thread!

Stay tuned.

[Rebel Doughboy]

Sorry I spent my weekend trooping. It was a lot of fun with the a shoot a trooper booth. Where They go for the head every time! I had so many darts stuck to my armor but it was fun. What also is fun? Going to the zoo as a Stormtrooper, decorate a Star Wars/501st tree, get mobbed by people there and freak the absolute poodoo out of lions. Pics or it didn't happen? They aren't uploaded yet.

Oh, I guess I have one update. Sandisk1duo finished my Thomas display. I am going to do make my own animations on top of that, but I would say this is sufficient.

http://youtu.be/JPYAqnozcJY?hd=1

[Arcturus1020]

That LED display is wicked cool! I want some for my Vader eyes!!!

Great job on the shoes!

[Rebel Doughboy]

Thanks SOOO much Arcturus! It means a lot!

I was on vacation but not at home to work on the helmets. Before returning to university I managed to finally take a stab at the buckets. I spent a hour on cutting on the glove panels for two sets of gloves, and the other two hours covered resin dust. There is a good full day of bondo and sanding left before I can ship all of this to the chromer.


20121125_155630 by TK9336, on Flickr


20121125_163607 by TK9336, on Flickr
I held off cutting the lip off the Sorenzo Guy; I want to mount the visor from inside the helmet but I want to mess with it more first before cleaning it all the way up. Given my limited time I picked parts to sand. I will probably do the wire hair the way Tek did it by cutting slits at the top and bottom. However I want to be anal retentive on being as CLOSE AS POSSIBLE and the ones I have pictures of show it almost as a seperate piece. Again, holding off. Input appreciated, since you can take milk outta the cow, but can't put it back in.


20121125_163349 by TK9336, on Flickr

[Arcturus1020]

Do you have enough of the visor to mount from the inside? If you do, then I say take the lip off. I seem to remember this guy Sorenzo's build on the RPF.

[Rebel Doughboy]

One and the same!

I will be the only person putting electronics in one of his casts, which is arguably the best recreation of the real thing ever made. I am going totally crazy with it to be as close to real deal in relation to scale and electronics. I am taking the back piece out and I will continue playing with the visor fitting.

[Rebel Doughboy]

Stay classy geekdom by TK9336, on Flickr
Never solder without a beverage handy.


Who doesn't want a Daft Club card? by TK9336, on Flickr


Not fitted in yet, but it looks cool! by TK9336, on Flickr

I will have a four day weekend coming up, in which I can fully move these helmets out to the chromer. I am getting ready to make the chassis for the electronics...anyone recommend a glue? Rather, any reason to pick a apoxy resin, over E6000? I asked my brothers over at the First Imperial Stormtrooper Detachment and I got mixed answers. Does it really matter?

Also, glue to attach the glove plates? I was thinking 3M all-weather adhesives.

Gauge for the wire hair for Guy? It's the thickness of a iPod charger cable. I don't know what that is.

Getting some more sanding sponges and paper for the approaching wetsanding apocalypse. Also, a belt sander to make quick work of the glove plates.

Also need to get opaque plastic for Thomas' ear pucks. Doing the double rings, by placing the 8 LED microcontroller inside making a hole in the plastic circle closest to the helmet to run the power wires out of. In the the end, the rig will run 4 AA batteries are connected to a 5v regulator for the main array, something similar for the sidebars, and two 9V batteries for the ears.

I will make my "canon" displays (the displays accurate as possible to the originals) after I send out the helmets, and make the chassis.

Appreciate advice and input as always.

[Rebel Doughboy]

Well I have some real progress to show. I couldn't resist putting Sandiskduos' array behind my new tinted visor. I am pretty happy with it. Imagine it in a chromed lid with sidebars? Woah.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PYShkpIobBg&feature=plcp

That said...I dyed the visors and got all the materials needed to sand and finish the helmets. I also bough drill bits that are the preecise size needed for the 3mm LED's and RCA jack that goes on the Guy Man helmet. I will take pictures of that tomorrow so you guys don't need to bring your handy micrometer to the store with you.

My first helmet was a Pinski Guy Man, and I used niteshades to do that visor. VHT niteshades is a very thin paint, and left very tiny blotches on the visor. It wasn't a mirror finish either. Even with the best skill, it will not leave a perfect product, which in our collective case is a Daft Punk visor.

Determined not to run that gamut again with my current Sorenzo and Pinski lids. Instead I wanted to try RIT dye, and hoping it redeem itself with plastic because it failed on my rubber soles (from my Adidas Nizza high tops, which are also for this costume. Another thread in itself.) There are a few threads I found that have tried this method and succeeded. I am proved without a doubt this is the only way to produce such a great result for these visors, save pulling PETG already tinted black. So let's go on.

Materials needed:
-Large pot that can hold your Guy-Man visor (in retrospect find on that hold it standing up vertically, not face down. It can produce burn spots, and a dark spot in your visor. While the dark spot is not visible on the outside, it makes looking out of the visor more difficult than it should be. If I could go back and change the pot I had with the turkey frying pot my pops uses. I might go back and dye my Guy visor in there again to make it a tad darker.)
-Stovetop (or way to heat your pot to 140-150 degrees)
-6-9 Packs of RIT Dye (Available at Wal-Mart, also take into account how much water there is in your pot, I used 9)
-Visors
-2 Wire coat hangers (and something to cut them with)
-Another large pot/tub (to use to pour cold water over the hot visor to seal the ink)
-Plenty of cups with cold water (One cup of water to pour over the visor after a dipping session)


Materials by TK9336, on Flickr

Take every precaution with this. RIT dye is AGGRESSIVE. If you don't get it a droplet wiped off quickly, it will stain; wood floors, ceramic counter tops, tile, clothes. More coverage is better than less coverage and a ruined countertop.


Take every precaution by TK9336, on Flickr

Pour your powder in the pot. Be careful, and do not sneeze unless you want it everywhere.


Looks like I am making a bomb by TK9336, on Flickr

This stuff looks like the black death from Promethus. Be cautious!


This is akin to the black death from Promethus by TK9336, on Flickr

Get it to 140-150 degrees Fahrenheit. Once it's there it will stick there for the time needed for one visor. Simply return it to heat at half power and it will be right back the right temp, then take it off heat. Too much heat will distort the plastic, and depending on you position your visor while being dyed remember that certain areas collect more liquid than others. That means, it will get hotter there and make that spot darker, and may even warp it slightly. Remember to conscious of placement.


~150 degrees by TK9336, on Flickr

Drill two holes in your Thomas visor and in your Guy visor off EXCESS material that will be cut off, or not seen in the final fitting. Use the coat hanger to dunk it, since without any pressure it will float and not dye evenly. I found that 5 minutes submerged, with a cold water pour immediately afterwards works well. Any longer and it WILL warp to some minor degree (dependant upon heat of course.) How many licks to get the center of the tootsie pop? I dunked Thomas 6 or 8 times. After 6 dunks, basically do it until you are your happy. Remember to stop and dry it and do a vision test so you can see out of it. Makes no sense to have something that is to a camera, and up close is black but is really red (but you can see) rather than making it so dark that you can barely see and it looks the same on pictures.

The first visor done was Thomas. It is a simple strip of PETG plastic.


This shows the red tint perfectly, but with no light behind it is black by TK9336, on Flickr

When on the helmet, it is black since there is no light within the helmet to shine through and make it appear dark red, it comes off as a mirror black finish. I then moved onto Guy's helmet, in which I had more reservations about. I drilled two holes but only used one. It took quite a bit longer than the Thomas visor (obviously.) Thanks to it sitting face done, allowing more dye to gather in the middle of the visor. Not visible to the outside but from within the helmet, it is slightly visible at the right angle. Not mention it is right where I will be able to look out of, adding to the difficulty of just seeing out this thing. Alas, I hope my countless hours of Stormtroopin' has prepared me for this lack of vision!


Dark spot by TK9336, on Flickr


I might re-dye Guy's visor, you can see the red tint in this pic by TK9336, on Flickr

The tint is visible in this pic of Guy next to Thomas. Thomas turned out perfectly, I have some incentive to dye it again (thankfully saving the dye!) But again, here's why I posting, I need YOUR input! I had two pictues taken wearing the lid with, and without flash.


No Flash by TK9336, on Flickr


Flash by TK9336, on Flickr

For comparision's sake. On left, Sorenzo Guy visor with RIT Dye (notice the small marks, which are seen at pretty much only this angle.) On right, Pinski visor with VHT Niteshades, buffed with Maguier's Ultimate compound and prepped at 2000 grit beforehand. You be the judge.


Sorezno visor next to a Pinski visor (niteshades) by TK9336, on Flickr

Semester ends in two hours. Then a month to dabble with this project, and yes...FINISH IT! Hope it was helpful.

[Arcturus1020]

I like it as-is! Love it, in fact! Awesome job, Kevin!!!

[Rebel Doughboy]

Thanks Acturus it means a lot! Really appreciate the kind words!

[Rebel Doughboy]

DING DING DING!

Thanks to Chris Jones of Berlin who posted on my thread over in the RPF who found the real Adidas style Daft Punk wears. Now to finding these, will be next to impossible. These are called Kareem Abdul Jabbar sneakers (first celeb endorsment of shoes) and they originated as basketball sneakers. Upon further review after my initial excitement, the 2005 reboot with the felt bumper is the exact same Daft Punk used. I want to believe from the pictures I have to reference these shoes that Daft's does indeed have felt bumpers (that's right, not all leather as first believed.)


Adidas Kareem Abdul Jabbar BBall Sneaks by TK9336, on Flickr


Adidas Kareem Abdul Jabbar BBall Sneaks by TK9336, on Flickr


Adidas Kareem Abdul Jabbar BBall Sneaks by TK9336, on Flickr

A bit of snooping around on the internet has led to the Adidas Jabbar Hi in black/gold/white. Black felt bumper. These are out there and much easier to find than the original Jabbars. Well, call me a mad man but I find this version to be darn near identical to every reference picture I have, including a multitude of screenshots from Electroma. You decide.


Adidas Jabbar Hi Black 2005 by TK9336, on Flickr


Adidas Jabbar Hi Black 2005 by TK9336, on Flickr


Adidas Jabbar Hi Black 2005 by TK9336, on Flickr

Now to find a pair, dye white stripes and use my Forever black on the soles to make'em black as the night. I am a happy guy, since these go cheaper, or about the same as the Nizzas I bought. When I procure a pair, I will upload photos, comparisions...as usual. I think we have a winner folks!

Mission: Successful. Have a pair? SELL THEM TO ME.

[Rebel Doughboy]

Sorry folks that I stepped away from updating, or working on these helmets for so long (I don't call researching a pair of shoes a real update). I caught the lazy/holiday bug and it's been wild being back home! I set up shop and squared off all the slits in the Thomas helmet. I am going to fill the upper nostril slits because on the Pinski lid they are too close together (in my opinion.) So just a little but of filling in already cut pieces. I can't stress the importance of having microfiles for these things.

TO DO-
-Filling and sanding (both). (Redoing the upper nostril bars to make look wider apart...really easy fix.)
-Guy lightfan chassis.
-All of Guy's (teks) LED's are soldered but need connecting. My own Chin equalizers will be done after everything else is (on the same day I do Thomas' sidebars). I need to make the project box but otherwise just a lot of wiring.
-Attaching and cutting Thomas' earpucks.
-Drilling out holes for the RCA adapter and 3mm LEDs (I will upload pics of the EXACT bit you need for your drill, and dremel).
-Thomas Sidebars, I need to take a day and figure it out. It will probably take the whole day.
-Sanding both sets of glove panels (easy with a mouse sander...I already did quite a few in a small period of time).
-Send to the chromer.

Done-
-HAA Leather suit. $700 dollars in materials later, and 10 months waiting but I am going to physically drive down state and pick it up Wednesday evening, or Thursday noon.
-Thomas main 320 LED array (sandiskduo1).
-Glove liners (I might get the opera gloves instead for the realism lolz because even though they wear the short cuff black glove, all the pictures of them live show the opera glove. I would be willing to sell these. They are Seirus Black glove liners and cost $20 a pair. I have two! Shoot me a PM if interested. Both size Medium.)
-Adidas Nizza Hi Tops in FULL black. (Real ones are modified Adidas Kareem Abdul Jabbar [V2], I'm still on the hunt! Until then, these shoes are accurate enough for me).
-Visors are tinted. There is a small circle depression in the center of the Guy man visor (about the circumference of the back of a pen). It bugs the absolute apeshit outta me, but its very hard to see (you have to be standing over the helmet at a oblique angle to see it). One day I might get a nice one and dye it vertically opposed to horizontally. At 50 UK pounds, it's expensive. On that note, I just received over 4 feet of PETG plastic and wouldn't mind dying some more in the future for people who need a tinted visor without dealing with Niteshades.

Again, sorry for lack of updates...I added some pictures on this little facebook page I made to dump all the updates on costumes at http://www.facebook.com/9336industries

I have everything I need to finish this costume in front of me (including boxes to ship both helmets, and sets of gloves to the chromer. Anyone want to do this for me?

[Rebel Doughboy]

Teaser 0 by TK9336, on Flickr

I didn't get the suit today, but tomorrow will be the day...now on 11 months in the making! These teasers kill me! I hope mine to be one of the most accurate renditions out there, to be on par with Volpin's made by Cathy at God Save the Queen's Fashions (which is bar none, the best replica out there). I used her patterns, and Italian imported lambskin leather, plus all the other bits (I really analyzed this one...if you thought my obession over the shoes was bad...this was far worse, hah!) I can't wait to see them. Here are some cell phone pics of the suit I received today. It should make Dior proud (I hope!)


Teaser 1 by TK9336, on Flickr


Teaser 2 by TK9336, on Flickr

Hard to see the details, but y'all know what it looks like. Each piping panel was done individually, filled individually. She said the small panels took three hours a piece (she sewn each pipe one at a time to get the same effect of the original...a lot of care was taken into the construction of this piece.) Can't wait to wear this, take great pics, and get Heather to divulge a bit on the difficulty of making this piece. No helmet updates...been too excited to get the suit.

[Arcturus1020]

AWESOME RDB! And it's too bad about the shoes being Adidas brand . . . if they were Nike, I'd probably be able to score you a pair with no problem. Good luck on the shoes! I saw one pair up on eBay right now in an 8.5 size but in white with blue accents. What size are you looking for?

[Rebel Doughboy]

THANKS!!!!!! Pesky Adidas. I found all leather pair but cannot find them in hi tops, which is a shame!

I am looking for 9, or 9.5. I found these- http://www.driphollywood.com/adidas-jabbar-high.html

How would you recommend dying these shoes black? (I can do the rubber parts fine.) I plan to then make them super shiny.

[Rebel Doughboy]

With sad news, the all leather Daft Punk suit that cost 650 USD in materials to create, didn't fit, and there are details that are off. I tried everything I could to find someone who could resize it. Apparently...you can't do that with leather. So, now I am selling it as is to get funds to try again, yes...try again. I was really frustrated to say the absolute least, but adapt, overcome and achieve. This dream won't die so easily! Another professional seamstress has been located in downtown Chicago and we're taking every procedure to ensure it fits PERFECTLY...including full body measurements in person of every limb, and a entire mock up suit. To say the least, I am pretty excited and it will be done in March. However...I have to sell this suit first, and my NEG Clone armor to afford it. What a famous Jedi once said..."Do what you feel is right, of course."

My Adidas Jabbar Hi Tops (the pair Daft Punk wears from Adidas) arrive tomorrow, and today I received the Angelus leather paint (black), and Acrylic High gloss finisher. I am going to the shoe repair store tomorrow to pick up Feibings Deglazer and preparer, and Meltonian Suede Renew to color the suede toe bumper. The suit might be a bummer, but the project goes on!

Pictures as always. Coming tomorrow...pretty excited!

[Rebel Doughboy]

Not only did the shoes arrive, but my Mom fit into the suit meant for me! She's 5'4" and 110 lbs for perspective...I'm 5'7" and 165 lbs, Hah!


Mom wearin' mi Daft Punk by TK9336, on Flickr


Mom wearin' mi Daft Punk by TK9336, on Flickr


Mom wearin' mi Daft Punk by TK9336, on Flickr


Mom wearin' mi Daft Punk by TK9336, on Flickr

SHOES:

Daft Punk (source?)


Up close! by TK9336, on Flickr

ROUND 1: ADIDAS TOP TENS

Adidas Top Ten's (Round: 1) by TK9336, on Flickr

ROUND 2: ADIDAS NIZZA HI
BEFORE-

Nizza Hi tops, out of box by TK9336, on Flickr

AFTER-

Adidas Nizzas (Round:2) by TK9336, on Flickr

ROUND 3: FIGHT! ADIDAS KAREEM ABDUL JABBARS

Adidas Jabbars (Round: 3) by TK9336, on Flickr

This is what I plan to do to them-

Adidas Kareem Abdul Jabbars Sz 9 by TK9336, on Flickr

To finally, become this-

Daft Shoes @Flynn's Arcade by TK9336, on Flickr


Final by TK9336, on Flickr

I will take a stab at the shoes this weekend, and finalize the helmets. Going to be the most productive weekend for me in a long time!

[Rebel Doughboy]

Well the conversion went swimmingly. I did feel bad taking such a brand new, clean pair of sneakers and making them as dark as the night. I guess I'll write up a tutorial for anyone else thinking about doing this if they cannot get a hold of Jabbar V2's, or well, want to give it a shot.

Difficulty: Easy

Materials:
-Adidas Kareem Abdul Jabbar sneakers (Deadstock if possible).
-Angelus Black leather paint 4oz bottle (not the dye!)
-Angelus High Gloss Acrylic paint Finisher 4oz bottle.
-Angelus (or Fiebings) Deglazer and Preparer.
-Sponge applicator (multiple).
-Small brush for detail areas.
-Small bowl.


Adidas Kareem Abdul Jabbars Sz 9 by TK9336, on Flickr

TIME: 3-4 Hours.

Preparation is everything when making a replica, or anything. You don't have to get halfway, and have a "oh snap" moment because then it is very likely it is too late, and a mind numbing fix. Make sure your workspace is ready (some newspaper would do really.) This isn't a messy project, just make sure you shake the paint bottle, put it in a bowl, have a sponge applicator ready, and just take your time.

First off, take the laces out. Remember, if your shoes are "deadstock" they are factory fresh, they have just been in the box for a long time. Make sure there isn't any dirt, or dust on them that could contaminate the paint finish. Take a cloth, wipe it off, and just make sure there isn't anything that screams dirt. If your shoes are dirty however, make sure you clean them with simple soap, and water and dry them bad boys off.


The Conversion by TK9336, on Flickr

NOTE: I used Meltonian Suede Re-Nu for my suede toe bumpers. I put on really thin coats and it went on, but it was taking forever, and the best results I was getting, was dark grey, not jet black. I wouldn't recommend it. The tip to painting suede is that a little paint goes a long way. You have to work the paint into the suede, otherwise glopping it on will look bad, and not work well. I don't recommend using that product, as the Angelus works fine, when using a sponge and taking your time.


The Conversion by TK9336, on Flickr


The Conversion by TK9336, on Flickr
(Definitely not black...but it served as a great undercoat!)


The Conversion by TK9336, on Flickr
(Painting suede [covered a little later in this post]. One coat on the left versus none on the right.)

Now, where were we? Right.

Deglazer, this stuff will stink up whatever space your working in, and the fumes aren't good for you either. Make sure you have a ventilated workspace! You don't need a ton, just spread over the LEATHER parts. Keep it off the rubber and suede. You don't need much because all your doing is taking off the protective factory finish. You can do the touch test. The factory finish leather will feel smooth and your finger glides across it. Once deglazer is on, it feels a little more natural. It feels a little rougher, but not a whole ton. You can, and will feel a subtle difference. This stuff also runs (consistency of water) so don't soak your sponge in it like I did, and end up finding another sponge to absorb the waterfall.

Coat it with two thin coats. Let dry. Like 10-15 minutes, let the juice do its work.

After it's dry feel to shake up your black paint. This paint has more similarity to sludge than water based paint. Once mixed up, it should have the flow of normal paint. However note: if you let the paint in your bowl sit out too long it will harden. So don't walk away from the paint and expect it to be the same an hour later. With that I recommend...paint in sections! Pour out a little paint at a time, and don't go ham right away! Too much paint too quickly won't settle correctly, or bond as well and be MUCH more prone to cracking.


The Conversion by TK9336, on Flickr

Don't freak out after you do an area you see streak marks from your sponge, remember thin coats! When you do every part on the shoe, go back and start at the first section you started at. It should be dry to the touch by then! You want a rich black, and that small bottle has WAY more than enough to do BOTH shoes. You could do another two pairs!

AGAIN: With Angelus paint, a A LITTLE GOES FAR! The biggest thing here is patience. Let the paint dry and take your time, hell...enjoy it! Put on TRON: Legacy, or Interstella 5555...I watched Pulp Fiction. Also, remember to have a drink near by. No one likes being thirsty! Rush it, and it will LOOK rushed!


The Conversion by TK9336, on Flickr

That is the meat and potatoes of it. A little goes a long way here. I recommend doing the center of the shoe, and tongue last. After that, using SMALL amounts, hit up that suede. This part will take time to get right. Just take your time. I have stressed that enough yet? Rush it, and you soak the suede, and you can't really fix that.

If there anywhere you missed, use a small brush and fill in the areas with a good amount of paint (I found this happened on the top areas of stiches, and the recessed seam in the sole). Then your sponge and spread the paint around in that area, and not only is the spot filled, but it doesn't look like you filled it.

Once everything is where you want it to be, put away your Angelus paint Break out the High gloss finisher. You really do not need a lot of this. Just pour a little, work it in. Pour a little more, repeat until completed. You notice a instant change. Essentially, you putting a clear layer over the paint that seals it, and protects it from the cruel world! It should also not be any bit tacky. Once dry, lace those bad boys up and break them in a bit. I think the results speak for themselves.


The Conversion by TK9336, on Flickr

OPTIONAL: Using the high gloss on the soles. I know, I know the soles weren't shiny...but the protection keeps paint from scraping off left and right. I wore my previous pair of modified Nizzas for about three months around a college campus. I haven't figured out anyway to really paint, or dye the rubber soles to be permanent. The leather paint is most certainly strong, and won't be taken off easily...I really applaud Angelus on that. I also put on the Forever Black tire dye on the soles, for kicks (no, not for kicking people), maybe it might help the finish last longer. I still have yet to put on the gloss finish on the soles, but I first put on the Angelus paint, then Forever Black, and will put on the gloss.

Last reminder...the paint on the soles will only rub off when making abrasive contact with other objects, and the recessed areas will remain black. If out at a con (like I plan to do) I will just bring the tiny bottle of paint and the sponge applicator, and re apply as necessary.

Now for a compassion next to my Nizza Hi tops. You can see they have a little wear and tear from regular wear.


The Conversion by TK9336, on Flickr


The Conversion by TK9336, on Flickr


The Conversion by TK9336, on Flickr


The Conversion by TK9336, on Flickr


The Conversion by TK9336, on Flickr
(Yes I only lightly went over the bottom. Once I have a official photoshoot done I will do it for it. Otherwise...it will just come off in time anyways...)


The Conversion by TK9336, on Flickr


The Conversion by TK9336, on Flickr

That ALL said...if I could just get the V2 Jabbars (which are smooth leather, and all black) I would and skip all this work ANY day of the week. If you can get the Brown Jabbars hi tops V2 in your size, or if your lucky to find black...just get them! When your soles scrape off the black paint on top of the brown, it won't even be noticeable. The only thing with the V2's...is that they lack the suede toe bumper. My recommendation? Once you have V2's in your possession, take them to get a suede toe bumper added by a cobbler. BAM! That's all you'd have to do.

So in closing I say, happy hunting!